I'm from San Diego and I don't know how to surf...I know, what happened?! I've thrown out all kinds of lame defenses and I have even posed to be a surfer with non-Californians. It took until I reached Australia, but my surfing life finally begun at the MOJO Surf Camp this weekend.
The weekend started off great. I stood up on my first wave and a then a handful times soon thereafter. As my inexperience grew to confidence and then quickly expanded to cockiness, I moved out to the larger, real waves in the afternoon session. This is where my weekend changed....
Nosedive! Wipeout! Tossed underwater! Possible mild concussion! Nosedive again! Bail out! Any surfing skill I thought I once had was definitely gone now. On Sunday, I returned to the smaller waves only to be haunted by the dreaded LOW TIDEEE! Again the nosedives returned, but this time the wipeouts threw me into the hard, sandy bottom. My day came to a close after the realization that the dog could hang 10 way better than me.
All in all, the surf weekend was a blast! I did stand up (maybe not as many times as I would have liked) but it is a start. The MOJO instructors put on some great entertainment throughout weekend and showed me how to live the surfer life --wake up early to surf, lounge all day, party all night, and do it again! A Kelly Slater/Jonathon Bowman surfing career may not lie in my future, but HEY! I should at least be able to consistently surf the whitewash with Kilian soon. I leave you with some MOJO words of wisdom...
The weekend started off great. I stood up on my first wave and a then a handful times soon thereafter. As my inexperience grew to confidence and then quickly expanded to cockiness, I moved out to the larger, real waves in the afternoon session. This is where my weekend changed....
Nosedive! Wipeout! Tossed underwater! Possible mild concussion! Nosedive again! Bail out! Any surfing skill I thought I once had was definitely gone now. On Sunday, I returned to the smaller waves only to be haunted by the dreaded LOW TIDEEE! Again the nosedives returned, but this time the wipeouts threw me into the hard, sandy bottom. My day came to a close after the realization that the dog could hang 10 way better than me.
All in all, the surf weekend was a blast! I did stand up (maybe not as many times as I would have liked) but it is a start. The MOJO instructors put on some great entertainment throughout weekend and showed me how to live the surfer life --wake up early to surf, lounge all day, party all night, and do it again! A Kelly Slater/Jonathon Bowman surfing career may not lie in my future, but HEY! I should at least be able to consistently surf the whitewash with Kilian soon. I leave you with some MOJO words of wisdom...
